Gabe gingerly stemming his way through the lower c...
Description
Identifiable as the short, clean right-facing corner on the right side of the wall.
A great route with technical stemming, protected by small wires, that opens to accept fingers higher up. A convenient anchor at the lip facilitates an easy return to the base as well as being condusive to doing laps. Sadly, this route doesn't go for another hundred feet or so, but alas that's Josh.
I have to agree with Murf for the rating on this climb. It might be 10d on TR or on lead if you have very thin fingers (at least three stars out of five).
I'm really surpised that you guys think this is 5.11b. I've lead it several times and it's never seemed harder than 5.10+. My recollection is about three or four moves of well-protected and positive stemming before it opens up to accept fingers (and no my fingers don't fit right away). It seems easier than the stemming crux of Coarse And Buggy and Bridge Of Sighs for example.
I thought the stemming crux on Coarse and Buggy was easier than Snake Book. However, Bridge of Sighs (dicey pro at the crux!!) was definitely more difficult than Snake Book for me....the vagaries of route ratings.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Nov 10, 2003
"the vagarities of route ratings" Good point, especially at Josh of all places.
Emerald City
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