Todd Gordon on the first ascent of "Re-Todd Gordum...
Description
OZ is a large and somewhat remote area down the road from Split Rocks that offers a good selection of routes scattered about numerous crags. Approaches vary from crag to crag, but expect a thirty to forty-five minute walk on average. Some of the crags require hiking over rough and rocky terrain to reach, and ticks can be present in the washes at certain times of the year. The slightly lower elevation and rugged terrain of the area make this a good bet to escape the crowds of the western part of the Park as well as another alternative for those cold days.
The standout crag in OZ is Emerald City, which offers the best concentration of quality climbs and is home to such gems as The Rattler (5.10c), Snake Book (5.10d), Sonic Temple (5.11a) and Yellow Brick Road (5.11c). Some of the other crags offer a few high quality routes, but be warned that the rock quality varies considerably from rock to rock.
] A nice area to visit and escape the crowds of Hidden Valley and such; this part of the Park always seems quiet and has a remote feeling to it.
Getting There
There are two main parking spots used to access the OZ area and both are located north of the Pinto Wye (the intersection of the main road and the road that heads to Cottonwood and I-10).
The southern parking area is in a turnout 1.4 miles north of Pinto Wye and 3.5 miles south of the North Entrance (29 Palms gate). This is used to access the Munchkinland Area - No Place Like Dome, Voodoo Dome, Munchkinland Crag and more. No Place Like Dome is the obvious dark formation visible from the road, while the other formations lie strewn about the rugged hills and washes of the area.
The northern parking area is .3 miles north of the southern parking area at a pullout with an exhibit. The mileages are 1.7 north of the Pinto Wye and 3.2 miles south of the North Entrance. This is used to access the Valley Of The Voices, Poppy Field Boulders, Emerald City and the Hollywood Area. Walk straight west from the parking area, passing along the edge of a low hillside, and then enter a huge wash which is followed slightly uphill to the various areas. Valley Of Voices lies up the first side canyon on the left; Emerald City is up the second, past the Poppy Field Boulders; Hollywood is reached by continuing up the wash past a rocky section until you reach a large open valley with some attractive formations.