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Hemingway Buttress
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976 
A Farewell to Poodles 
Astropoodle 
Coyote Bait 
Death In The Afternoon 
Dung Fu 
Easy As Pi 
Feltonian Physics 
For Whom The Poodle Tolls 
Funky Dung 
Fusion Without Integrity 
Golden Years 
Head Over Heals 
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie 
Importance Of Being Ernest, The 
Layaway Plan 
Mind Over Splatter 
Moveable Feast 
Old Man and the Poodle, The 
On The Nob 
Overseer 
Pig In Heat 
Poodle In Shining Armor 
Poodle Jive 
Poodle-oids From The Deep 
Poodles Are People Too 
Poodlesby 
Prepackaged 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom 
Roadrunner, The 
Rock Wren 
Route 182 
Scary Poodles 
Smoke-A-Bowl 
Space Walk 
Spoodle 
Such A Poodle 
White Lightning 

Moveable Feast 

5.10c

   

FA: Roy McClenahan and Helga Brown, 3/88
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 57 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on May 4, 2008


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Description 

Located in the center of Hemingway Buttress about 30' right of Poodle In Shining Armor (5.8), just left of On The Nob (5.10b) and directly behind a large, healthy oak tree.

Climb Poodle-oids From The Deep (5.10b) for 30' and then continue up the plated face above passing four bolts and some suspect holds. At the last bolt you have two choices - climb slightly left (5.11) with long reaches between small edges or head right and climb the arete (5.9+), cutting back left higher up when possible (easier but scarier considering the bolt quality). Continue up easy face and cracks to the shoulder of the formation and then top out onto the summit block.

There are some good moves on this climb but the poor rock quality at the start detracts slightly as does the hollow holds on some of the face moves, and the bolts are in serious need of an upgrade. All in all a good adventure for those competent at the grade.

A single 70 meter rope is sufficent to descend. A single 60 meter rope might work if you swing left and downclimb some questionable rock (not recommended), but 2 ropes will work fine otherwise.


Protection 

4 bolts (5/16"), gear to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap (5/16")