Wilson Regular Route 

Well, it's definitely not a bomb. Yah, sure if you're _ a 5.7 leader, it's NOT a good route for you. It is loose... very loose in places, but I climbed this in a party of three, leading all pitches with two less experienced climbers following, and there we caused no rockfall as we climbed the route. Route finding was not easy, but not impossible. The traverse left onto the plates on the short second pitch was apparent from the ground, but a little less while on the climb. 2nd pitch beta: GO LEFT. Go 20 ft up from the P1 belay, then head straight left to a ledge with a bush. There are good spots for pro if you avoid the rotten rock. from the ledge, go straight up the steep plates on gym-style holds. Belay just above the steep plates. 3rd pitch will traverse way right on the lower ramp then follow cracks and flakes to the top.

This climb is a lot like an alpine climb. It's lose. Route finding is not straightforward. Climbing is mostly easy with a few cruxy sections. All in all, I enjoyed the route. It's not your typical JTree style, but it's what I'd expect for a "... Regular Route."

I've done variations on this route a few times, but am not sure I've ever done it the way described above. Here's my somewhat faded recollection of my variations, which I've always enjoyed: Pitch 1 -- up the easy ramp to a sling belay around a pillar, or continue up and left to a ledge with a tree. Pitch 2: Slightly left and up a somewhat loose, but easy 5.5 chimney with large patina holds. Alternately, continue straight up a short but clean right-arching 5.9 dihedral with a finger crack. I remember this being a little tricky to protect, but nothing R rated.

Hey This was one of my first trad leads. I've followed a bit and have my head on straight. I linked P1 and P2 together and basically walked up that ramp, in the dark.

The route wanders a bit but I thought it was straight forward and a fine 5.5 lead... I'd say there were some loose pebbles but not anything big. R rated my ass... not half as bad as a JTree sport climb.

Speaking from a point of learning to lead trad, route find and being terribly afraid of heights, this is a great learning route. One thing to be sure to do ahead of time - study the route picture, so that you know where to go. Better yet, print one out and bring it with you! Fortunately, there are many places for pro and not too many "blank" areas to get stuck on. I didn't find much chossy rock at all, and I don't think that this route deserves an R rating since, being a beginner, I would never attempt an R climb in the first place. There was really only one more difficult move, which was pulling over the edge of the flake, but that was totally protectable. I even ran it out in a few sections, which if you have ever climbed with me you know would generally terrify me, but I felt fine to trust the rock here. I enjoyed it, and although I would not say it was spectacular, it was a good confidence builder!

We did the route in 2 pitches, which works if you bring a 70m rope. The belay then comes after the pull over the flake, up a bit to the right where there is a small bush and a nice little ledge for an anchor and a rest. For pro, I used a couple nuts, cams between .5 and 3 (as an anchor) and many, many slings to lessen rope drag. So, all in all, a route worth doing to learn trad leading and built your "trad head".