This route starts just left of Overseer and goes up and left at the roof. After the roof you go straight up the crack to the top to set up an anchor.You can protect the crux at the roof by sticking a #4 way up in the crack. We removed the cam after pulling the crux to reduce rope drag.The pro is good on this climb, but everything sounds hollow. Nothing broke for us and I am a 200lb climber, so it is probably pretty solid.I gave it a star because I thought the crux was fun, bouldery and committing.Rap off right at the same rap anchors you use for White Lightning.
Protection
Gear up to Camalot #4. The #4 is what protects the crux with a long sling.
I remember this to be a fun route to try when finished with Overseer. Just leave an anchor atop Overseer and lead up Funky Dung and then head off to the rap anchors to the right. The rock quality wasn't really all that bad and the move around the lip is fun.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 18, 2006 rating: 5.8
This is a fun climb - I'm suprised that it doesn't get climbed more or more stars. Although a #4 camalot protects the crux, it doesn't involve any offwidth moves. Try not to belly flop through the crux.
Although a short climb that smells a bit funky, this climb has some fun moves. I think it easily deserves 2 starts for the area. I didn't find a #4 camalot necessary at the crux, a #3 fits.
Rock quality is kind of sketchy at the slightly overhanging arrete. Very hollow-sounding, and not great for pro placement. The piece I pulled out there could be removed by hanging on the large flake it was placed under--i.e. it bends away from the wall easily. Yikes...
Hemingway Buttress
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