Rock Wren 

FA:  Bob & Yvonne Gaines Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Season:  East facing Views: 101 page views Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-A-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.

Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.

Location 

Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.

Protection 

Nuts and/or TCUs and quickdraws. Chains on top.