Definitely one of the most fun and exciting 5.10 pitches in the park. After a cruxy face start, the steep and excellent crack provides solid gear all the way up and a pump that makes reaching the bolted anchor a good challenge. With its excellent pro and steepness, this route makes a good first 5.10 lead.
This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.
The IRS wall may be a "fairly long approach" by the standards of the Old Woman or Intersection Rock, but in general, I'd say the approach is actually quite short. For long approaches in JT, see something more along the lines of Super Dome or the Poodle Smasher.
Poodle Smasher and Super Dome long appraoches? Ha! When I was young, we would hike to Queen Mountain from Oz, just so we could boulder hop down into the Wonderland Wash to get to the Astro Domes. All before sun-up.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Apr 15, 2003 rating: 5.10a
Eats stoppers, will take cams in small sizes. This line can take a #2 or #3 camalot, but it's not crux pro and not necessary. If you can beat the first 4 meters of climbing, you have it made. Pro it up down low and then go for it.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 23, 2003
I didn't find the bolted anchor Steve mentions in the route description. We ended up rapping off of a smallish shrub/tree to climber's right.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 10, 2003 rating: 5.10a/b
Good climbing with thin fingers down low, gear protected face climbing with the odd jam in the middle and hand jams to finish. Bouldery down low with a definite crux and it remains steep and continuous for the duration. Three stars out of five.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 24, 2005
Okay so call me a clutz, as far as the approach being no big deal; I broke my ankle on the approach once - had my brand new sticky approach shoes on and they weren't as sticky as I thought. Taped up and did Tax Man, Alf's Arete, Head Over Heals, and Fusion Without Integrity, there was no way I was going to waste such a perfect day. Paid for it later though...
J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+.
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