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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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Foot Massage 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) 
Gomez 
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Look Before You Leap 
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Toxic Waltz 

Gomez 

5.10a

   

FA: (TR) Todd Swain 10/89, FL: Chris Miller 1998
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 119 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Oct 20, 2006


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Description 

Starts just right of Get Right Or Get Left (5.9) and climbs a steepening slab to vertical headwall (5.10-) before entering a steep but featured crack system (5.8). Angle left to the chain anchors on Get Right Or Get Left, or gear belay and scramble/climb left to access the anchors to rap (100' rap!).

Enjoyable climbing on quality rock, and in a locale that sees little traffic make this a good tick for the grade if in the area. Two stars out of five.


Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 2.5"



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Oct 20, 2006

The newest Joshua Tree guide (JT West) mistakenly lists this as having only three bolts.

By Bo Johnston
Oct 24, 2006

...and Vogel didn't even have you listed for the FA(Lead) Chris!! LOL Where's the love?

By Randy
Oct 25, 2006

What is with that Vogel guy anyway?

Actually, a guide is only as good as the info provided by others -- I don't personally climb every route.

Any omission was purely unintentioned.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Oct 5, 2008

A major portion of the roof below bolt #4 has fallen off making this route much harder than 5.10a. To keep the route at it's original 5.10a rating traverse left into Get Right or Get Left after clipping the 4th bolt and then back right when able to latch the fin which leads into the right crack system. The route still goes direct but is probably 5.11+ or so and not especially fun.