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Banana Cracks
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Right Banana Crack 

5.11a

   

FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 265 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: "Right Banana Crack" follows the right-hand crack ...


Description 

The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The formation comes into the sun by late morning. The Right Banana Crack was one of the hardest routes in the 1977 guidebook. It is an exciting lieback and hand crack, with great protection.


Location 

The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.


Protection 

gear to 4 inches



Add Comment Comments on Right Banana Crack
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By Nate R
Feb 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b

You don't really need gear to 4 inches. A single #3 camalot works fine.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 23, 2008
rating: 5.11b

Sweet crack climbing to a burly crux. I ended up cranking on a fist jam to get through it (after a fair number of falls). My buddy did it without the fist jam and instead used crimps out left. YMMV.

A #3.5 camalot went in perfectly just below the crux. You could probably get by with a #3 instead. A #4 would fit in the wide spot right at the crux, but it would be pretty fricken hard to stop and place gear through that section!

When combined with Left Banana Crack, this makes for a great, shady morning spot.