Clip bolt 1 and aim to stand on a small knob to clip bolt 2, which is an old Leeper. Marginal friction leads to bolt 3, which seems newer. Aim for a flat black hold, which enables a clip into another old Leeper (1/4 incher). A righthand sidepull flake leads, with ones head exploding, to the roof and a cam. Finish either left (large cam) or right. Rope drag can be a problem.
Location
The right edge of Tiny Tots
Protection
4 bolts and cams for the upper crack. A full length fall onto bolt 4 might shear it off. Until the upper 3 bolts are replced this route is an R/X IMHO.
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By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 24, 2006
I led this route about 10 years ago, when young and foolish, and Tony followed (and Fred Batliner also). Both of us agreed that it was a lot more desperate than we remembered; must've expunged it from our memories, or we're just getting old - or perhaps both.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 27, 2006 rating: 5.11+
Tiny Tots Rock
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