Andy all grins and enjoying the route. The steep c...
Description
You'll find this route on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall, just up and right from a prominent smooth slab with The Mojus (aka Slushie) (5.10c).
Climb easily to a bolt about 20' up, and then continue up a low-angled slab past a grapefruit-sized knob at the base of a vertical headwall with a featured crack. Intriguing moves, as well as textbook stopper slots, will be found throughout this section; higher the route follows a crack in a left-facing corner which affords some nice stemmming and thin jamming. The crack ends about 20' below the anchors, and while possible to climb directly, an easier (and safer) alternative is to cut right about 8' to reach another crack system leading to the anchor. Bolted anchor and 60 meter/100' rap to the base - don't attempt to rap this route with a 165' (50 meter) rope as you won't make it!
This is an enjoyable route reminiscent of the featured cracks of the upper Dairy Queen Wall, as well as the Shorter Wall in Rock Garden Valley. Three stars out of five.
Protection
bolt (12mm), pro to 2" (especially small to medium wires), bolted anchor/rap
Add PhotoPhotos of Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family)
Twenty feet up and almost to the first bit of prot...
BETA PHOTO: "Ger Right Or Get Left" (aka Addams Family). Photo...
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By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Mar 7, 2005 rating: 5.9
There is a good photo of this route in Vogel's guide. We got to it by traversing along the bottom of the wall from the ice cream theme routes farther north (or right). Once you pass through a huge yucca another few feet will bring you to the bottom of the climb. Good sustained 5.9 climbing almost to the belay where it eases off the last 20'. There are also a few nice rests where good gear can be placed. A very nice pitch after warming up on the routes further right and up the wall.
P.S. ...on pro-I used a green alien, and a yellow and blue TCU.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 14, 2006 rating: 5.9
Better route than it looks from the ground. Fun - mostly low angle climbing with entertaining (but solid) small nut placements. I placed wires, aliens, and up to a #1 Camalot. We made it back to the ground with a 70m rope, and 60m looks like it'll make it too.
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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