This route is sort of a pile and not really worth doing. I have no idea how it seemed good enough for listing in the "Trad Guide to Joshua Tree" as there are seriously way better routes of this grade in the park. This route starts on the left side of the northeast face of Grossvogel below an elephant ear flake.
P1) Climb up tricky ground below and right of the flake, then traverse left across the flake using the crack above. Continue in a slanting crack up and right to easy ground. Belay is a function of rope drag (you can split it up if there's too much), or you can run it all the way to the top.
P2) Continue to the top from where you belayed.
Descent: Scramble off down the slabs to the north. WARNING!!! The initial part of this descent is harder than the route you just came up! Place anchors and belay accordingly for safety!!!
I disagree. Both Dr. Suess Vogel and Roboranger are good routes for the grade. They have interesting moves and are VERY good for beginning leaders. I think the reason they are in the Trad Guide to Joshua Tree is because their proximity to the Atlantis wall. (>15 min) Its a great circuit for a new leader to climb a couple on the Atlantis wall and then a couple on Mt. Gross...don't forget to climb the Aguille de Joshua Tree
The best part is I have NEVER seen anyone out there.
Either these climbs are pretty good or I'm crazy...we stood on top of a snowbank to climb these!! It drifts a lot of snow here in the winter.
I agree with Brian. We climbed Classic Corner, False Classic Corner and this route in a fun outing. Led by my wife who is just breaking into the grade, it has good protection (except the traverse where it can be strenuous to place and a bit less than totally bomber). Bring small to medium gear and doubles in green/yellow Alien range may be welcome. The "scramble" off aka "downclimb" is a bit spicy at the start but still 4th class or 5.easy.
A pile and not worth the hike. Lots (and lots and lots) of better routes of this grade in the Park. Shows the power of the Trad guide to direct people's objectives. Probably all the traffic has improved what was otherwise a route destined to remain an obscure chosspile.
By Kirk Barrett From: Zion NP Mar 3, 2008 rating: 5.6
Fun climb!
By dcgusto97 From: Palm Desert, CA Mar 15, 2009 rating: 5.6
I think there's a few (like two or three) fun moves on this route - all early. Not a complete waste of time, but not sure its worth the walk out there. I mean, what's the deal with making the "60" guidebook? No way! We did the route in one pitch with a 60m rope. Bring 24" slings - we did and rope drag was not an issue. The walkdown kinda sucked, but then again, I'm kind of a wuss. We must have missed something, but there was a tricky section getting down - the rest was easy as pie.
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA May 27, 2009 rating: 5.6
Of the two 'Trad Guide' routes on this formation, this one is easily better than the other and has a couple of decent moves down low. That being said, it is not nearly one of the top 5.6's in the park. Why no love for Final Act or Curtain Call on Playhouse?! Or anything on Playhouse for that matter?
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