Roboranger starts on the right side of a big block on the northeast face of Grossvogel.
P1) Climb up the right side of the big block then traverse right across to grab the edge of the roof flake (where the block used to be). Layback up onto the roof and then continue in the crack above to a shelf system below a dihedral. Belaying here is mostly a function of rope drag.
P2) Climb the left dihedral to the top. This is the crux of the route and a bit grainy and tricky. Belay from cracks atop.
Descent: Scramble off down the slabs to the north. WARNING!!! The initial part of this descent is harder than the route you just came up! Place anchors and belay accordingly for safety!!!
Protection
Finger sized up to #4 Camalot (good for the roof move).
This route along with Dr. Suess Vogel are hardly worth the trip over. If it were me, I'd stop at the Jimmy Cliffs and actually climb something worth the time.
I did these routes while completing the Winger Guide to "favorite" routes. Uggh, what possessed them?
I don't know - I enjoyed this route, but I can understand how someone might think it a waste of time. There's a lot of class 4 on the ascent. The roof was fun and the upper crack is the best part.
As for the descent, it's not so bad. Just watch yourself getting started. If you manage to fall it's only about a 5' slide to the ledge. After that it's standard class 3 to the ground.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO May 24, 2008 rating: 5.5
The second pitch is worth the climb (though short as well). Turning the roof is exciting for a beginning trad leader to whom I would recommend this climb.
Mount Grossvogel
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