You are made to respect this route early, as you have to crawl to the base, located in an alcove. The exposure starts here, with the alcove 30 feet above the talus, and the valley spread out a few hundred feet below.
A stiff layback starts out the route, keep pulling until you feel the opposite wall at your back. Continue to the handrail, traverse into the light, and contemplate the move over the roof. The exposure is thrilling at this point, enjoy it. Pull the move, clipping the bolts, and clamber to the top.
Descend via a chimmney to the back (Wild Gravity) of the formation.
Protection
Good range from finger sized to 3-4 inch, 2 bolts (1/4", 5/16").
We went out there Sunday to check it out. Seemed like it would be difficult/awkward to protect the roof move(s). I am wondering if people use a big cam at the lip, and if so, will a #4 camalot work or do you have to bring a #5 up there?
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 29, 2004 rating: 5.10d
My recollection of the gear is this - after getting a piece in the horizontal rail (near the lip) you make some cool, airy moves across to the stance with the two bolts and then finish up the wide crack above. You may want a 4" piece (a #5 Camalot will most likely be too large) after the bolts, but if you've made it that far you shouldn't need it as it gets low-angled after a move or two.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 5, 2006
Sorry Sewell... never happened. Cilley never tried it.
I tried it on toprope but it was too contrived as you bang into the walls with your head and back and whatnot. Got out a ways and gave up due to the fact you could probaby just chimney the thing. Here is a pic of the TR try.....
The most memorable route I've done in the monument. Five stars for the novelty value and position.
Chris's gear notes are right on the money. Largest piece we had was a #4 camalot and used that at the beginning of the roof. There's a large slung chockstone at the start of the roof about where we placed the 4, so you could potentially leave the big cams at home.
By John Dubrawski From: Santa Monica, CA Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.10d
If you can get up the lieback at the start then doing the traverse without pro really shouldn't be much of an issue; the edge is quite positive. However, there's webbing hanging off the chockstone, so why not.
Imaginary Voyage Formation
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