Alf's Arete 

The story of the first ascent: During the late 70's, the strict traditional ethic of J-Tree meant that all routes had to be estabilished on lead, even the drilling of bolts should be done from stances, or hooks at worst. This method was employed on all the bolted leads done up to the time of this route. When Alf Randell discovered this line, he started leading up on aid, but the edges were too friable for hooking, so they would drill tiny holes for bat hooks, from which they drilled the lead bolts. Often these hard (and manufactured!) aid placements would blow, resulting in broken drills, scarred rock and bad falls. Realizing the contrived restriction of this system, and disregarding the frowns and animosity of the top clique of climbers in J-Tree at the time, Alf and his partner (whose name I unfortunately forgot) scrambled to the top of the cliff and did the first rap bolting of a route in Joshua Tree. This superb and popular arete climb is the result. He tried at first to do this at night-time, and claimed that he bolted it on lead, somewhat afraid that the more zealous traditionalists would chop his proud addition. Eventually, it became obvious to climbers this route could not have been bolted on lead, but by this time so many had climbed it and thoroughly enjoyed it, that the rap bolting had to become accepted. Not for another decade did Alan Watts start rap bolting routes at Smith Rock, thus starting American sport climbing. This route was definitely one of the very first "sport climbs" in America.

Awesome info, thanks a bunch Steve! Is this the Same Alf that's (in)famous in stories I hear of the Owen River Gorge of "Alf and the Scrutinizer" (whoever the Scrutinizer is) camping out at the parking for the Gorge for a season, putting up tons of routes, stealing peopls projects, etc etc etc?

By the way - although the definition of a "sport climb" has been loosely used in Josh, it generally refers to an all bolted climb with a fixed anchor that is not too runout. The reason I mention this is when established this route topped out and needed gear for the anchor (Dave Mayville is the one who doubled the last bolt and made it a true sport climb).

Considering the quantity and spacing of the bolts etc. perhaps the SW Corner of Headstone was an early "sport route". Certainly Papa Woolsey is bolted like a sport climb, albeit without a fixed anchor, and it was done in 1972...

I think this is the notorious Alf who now resides in Socorro, NM. Alf is somewhat of a legend I've found out. When I used to live in Albuquerque I would often get asked if I've heard of a NM climber named Alf... it seems he's the only climber with a NM background who anyone has heard of. Among Alf's notorious deeds (or rumored deeds) include destroying an access trail at Enchanted Tower, chopping a few bolts, chisling a few holds, and some egregious rock destruction immediately adjacent to 45 degree wall at Hueco Tanks. Alf's role in the Hueco incident is mentioned by name in Verm's Hueco guide. The gist of the story is that Alf 'cleaned' (read excavated) some holds directly above the petroglyphs to the right of the 45 degree wall problem. It is likely that this incident and the resulting rock damage near the petroglyph resulted in the current complete closure of 45 degree wall.

A guy should be thrown in prison for that, if a mob of climbers doesn't lynch him first. Praise be to the Access Fund for their continued efforts in Hueco Tanks and around the country. You're all AF members, right? Right?!

The single protection bolt on Nuclear Waste (just to the right of Alf's Arete) was replaced 1/2003.

I'm not quite sure I believe that story about the FA... as the route stands now, all the bolts are in logical and good stances. It could have been bolted on lead? Regardless, a fun route.

Re: the history of the FA above by Steve.

This route was done in some dubious style, but your dates are miles apart on the reality of rap bolting and the birth of sport climbing. Late 70's style was in fact ground up, but this route was done in the late 80's according to the FA info. There is a lot of water under the bridge between those timeframes, and your description of the birth of sport climbing and this route being right in the thick of it is mostly revisionist fantasy. Alan Watts was rap bolting at Smith in the early 80's. By your account, that would mean that this route, which by the way was NOT the first rap bolted route in Josh, would have to of been created in the early 70's. There are no facts to support your FA history. It would be nice if your info was cleaned up and made to reflect reality.