This route starts off of a boulder between Bryant Gumbel and Grandpa Gander and features very thin friction moves with very little in the way of holds. Put on your good shoes for this one! As with all routes on this formation, relatively easy walkoff towards entrance road to Lost Horse.
Protection
This is a three bolt thin friction route. There are no anchors on top. Small to medium pro for anchor. Hexes, Tricams, SLCD's all work well.
a year or so back I hung all over the bolts trying to get this one. Yesterday we top roped it and again..I flailed!!! This thing is thin and takes smooth movement. It is very much Jtree friction all the way! Easy to set up a top rope inside a little hole in the rocks on top (Tight squeeze however) Most pro works well in the small to medium range. After giving this one a shot redirect rope via bolts to the right and have at Grandpa Gander 5.10cR that some found the start more difficult that this route................over and out! Eee Aww Keeeee!!!
By 72HW From: Los Angeles, CA Feb 19, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Bald like a newborns' butt, thing like a 29 Palms tweaker and fun as heck on TR. Would like to see it led, but man, it's not within my ken to do it! Hung like crazy at the crux, found the key to be using obvious crimps in un-obvious ways and a very helpful right foot micro edge. Way balancey, way frictiony and prolly one of the hardest things I've clawed my wy up to date. Highly recomended!
Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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