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Fantasy of Light 

5.10a

   

FA: B. Sillasen, T. Gordon & A. Bartlett 3/88
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 232 page views

Submitted By: Locker on Jul 2, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: 1-12-03


Description 

This route starts with a couple 5.10a moves and eases up considerably to some fun, easily protected, climbing. In the shade afternoon.


Protection 

Standard rack, build anchor. Smaller tricams, long webbing/cord to sling boulders worked great.



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By Adam Kimmerly
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d

I found the start of this route to be significantly harder than 5.10a. Maybe a foothold has broken, or maybe you're supposed to use a cheat stone. I don't know. But the 5.10b to the right "Nittany Lion" felt significantly easier, putting the start of this route at 5.10c/d. Fun moves though. "Nittany Lion" is good too, and a bit more sustained. Both are worthwhile ticks if you're in the area.

By Ryan Kelly
From: morF
Feb 10, 2008
rating: 5.7+

I'm not sure the TDS can really rate a climb like this well. It's a one move boulder problem (V1-?) on flat ground to 5.7-ish climbing. I guess I can see how someone might call it .10b/c if you do several face moves on the little crimps at the start. But using the huge undercling and a high foot in the pod will allow you to pull up to the big holds in 1 move. Powerful, but easy, not .10c/d by any means. 5.7+? Sounds good.