BETA PHOTO: "Fusion Without Integrity". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This route is located on the far right portion of Hemingway Buttress just to the right of Puzzlin' Evidence; it's the third route looking left to right. Climb past two bolts into a crack that leads directly to the top. It's somewhat sustained and presents a few interesting choices at crux points. If the leader chooses to climb up the large flake as I did, don't pull out on it. All three of our party though this was a very enjoyable route deserving of some stars it hadn't previously been given.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 8, 2007
+2 stars for the moves, -2 stars for the rock = 0 stars total.
The flake at the crux will break off eventually - I could easily have pulled it off today. The moves are interesting, but it'll suck for the belayer (and possibly climber) when that thing blows. You need to use it as a handhold and a foothold at the crux.
Gear: 2 bolts, some small nuts, a small TCU (blue?) and one set of camalots (#0.5-#2) for the climb and anchor.
We couldn't find a straight forward descent directly back to the base through the gully to the climbers left, and instead headed up and right to the base of the Fillipino Wall and then traversed back to the base of the climb.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 9, 2007
When we did the first ascent (In 1981), the hold was "really loose" back then;...I reefed on it to try to break it off, but couldn't.....26 years later, most people who climb the route comment on the "loose" hold.......just how loose is it?......how many people have pulled on this hold and NOT pulled it off? I guess when it FINALLY does come off ( Year 2026?).....THEN the saga of the loose hold will be over;......(I find the loose hold just a curiousity......a quirky addition to an interesting climb.....)Fusion without Integrity is the result of the joining of a man and a prostitute(Thus the name...)
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 9, 2007
LOL on the name
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 10, 2007
Nice info Todd, thanks for the story of the name! Hopefully the hold will last another 20 years :)
+1 stars for the integrity of the "really loose hold"
Hemingway Buttress
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