Norm 

FA:  Todd Gordon, Dana Adler, Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Brian Haslam, Susan Alford 3/95 New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 173 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route is located on the far left side of the Dairy Queen Wall about 50' left of Leap Year Flake (5.7), and is identified as a bolted face climb up the face/arete of a large flake lying against the main formation. The rock is a fine grained gray with the occasional knob, which is a pleasant departure from the more typical oatmeal-colored rock.

Start up a short section of smooth slab with a jagged crack to reach a small roof/overlap (optional .4"-.5" cam here) about 15' up, above which is the first of five bolts. The climb moves slightly right after the second bolt to reach a shallow corner, which is followed up to a small mantleshelf and the third bolt. Above, climb through a lower-angled section and pass a dubious "fixed rurp" before the wall steepens and enjoyable smearing and liebacking on the edge of the flake continues past two more bolts to anchors.

Named for an airline pilot friend of Todd's, this is a fun climb that rarely sees traffic due to it's location on the less popular left side of the DQ Wall. A pleasant area to explore that has an easier and shorter approach than the more frequented right side of the wall. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

5 bolts (5/16", 3/8"), "fixed rurp", bolted anchor/rap. Optional .4"-.5" cam