The face between Young Lust and Smithereens is where you'll find this challenging route.
Easy moves at the start lead to a thin seam that splits the center of the face (crux). The climbing isn't especially difficult but hanging on long enough to wiggle in the gear is. Once past the crux load up some gear in a horizontal crack at mid-height and enjoy the steep edges with minimal pro that lead to the topout. The difficulty of the climb varies with how direct you stay, as wandering to either side can knock the grade down somewhat.
A serious lead that rarely gets done as most people visiting the area come for the moderate cracks of the area. Easily rigged as a toprope after leading either of the neighboring routes and much safer this way as well. One star out of five.
Protection
pro to 2" (small wires are needed), bolted anchor/rap
Add CommentComments on Lewd And Lascivious Conduct
Show which comments —
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Oct 22, 2006 rating: 5.10c R
Done on TR, the moves are actually quite fun on thin holds and balancy footwork. Fairly consistent movement all the way to the top, there's a slight pump felt by the end of the route.
Rock Garden Valley/Shorter Wall
RSS Feed
