Young Lust 

FA:  Keith Cunning et al 1979 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 367 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Sheryl following up Young Lust. The many pro's pla...

Description 

This route and it's neighbor (Smithereens) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

pro to 1.5" (wires work especially well), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")

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Sheryl entering the crux of Young Lust (5.8+).