The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering out below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges which lead right to the top. Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality (5.9).
High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this the standout route of the area and one easily led by climbers solid at the grade. Four stars out of five.
Location
This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.
Protection
4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (microwires can be useful for the crux section), bolted anchor on top (3/8").
I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 29, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO.
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