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The Talking Fish 

5.10c/d

   

FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Beck, 9/88.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Views: 100 page views

Submitted By: Randy on Feb 6, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: "The Talking Fish".
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

This route fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Calk Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.

Up interesting face/seam (10c) past 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro) to reach a left slanting crack. Above, the crack leans back to the right (10c) then heads up easier flared crack to the top.

Downclimb east face then around south side of formation (climbers right).


Protection 

To 2.5 inches; 3 bolts, 1 fixed pin.



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By Murf
Feb 7, 2005

Not bad, perhaps 2 of 5. Rock quality is not 100%. My somewhat dim recollection is that its perhaps a bit spicy and that I was very happy to have a purple TCU. Should definately be added to anyones Freeway wall rotation ( as well as Quantum Leap ).

By Erik
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Although this route is not much harder than Anacram, the spicy climbing is low on the route. Getting to first bolt is not as easy as it looks and first 20 feet have some crimps that will be removed with more traffic. I always thought it 3 out of 5 stars.