This fun and somewhat unique climb is located on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall more or less directly below the prominent, overhanging corner of Pat Adams Dihedral.
Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.
Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.
The pro overall is great however there is one section a bit before you reach the flake that is thin. I used a #3 Camp Ball nutz because a tri cam would not fit. The grade is not beyond 5.7 though.
The comment "somewhat unique climb" almost scared me off, but it was a sweet little climb. It felt more like a Tuolumne or Tahoe route than JT - smearing & stemming; crack technique not really needed. The flake sounds a bit hollow so check carefully before you place your gear.
An alternate (and harder) start to this route is to climb Leap Erickson to it's 4th bolt and then cut right on the sloping ledge to reach the base of the flake system. Extending the 1st placement or two will cut down on any rope drag you might otherwise encounter.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Dec 7, 2008 rating: 5.7
Agree with Tony Grice on pro. A really great finish up the flake, something to savor. I'd say it's one of the must do 5.7's in The Park.
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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