Start as you would for Spitwad but continue straight up. The protection is good all the way, and there are some interesting moves. I think 5.9 is a little mild for the crux. All in all, a fine route that I'd do again.
By C Miller Administrator May 20, 2004 rating: 5.8
Were this crack 80' longer it would be a total classic...that's okay as it's still pretty good. The featured varnish almost makes this route seem like a face route with gear at times.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 24, 2007
I thought this crack was just as fun and the highly starred routes to the right. It is an easy 5.9 with good gear.
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA May 26, 2009 rating: 5.8
I'll one up Guy and say that I felt this route was actually better than Young Lust and Smithereens. Even the wide section in the middle is somewhat interesting. Definitely do this route if you're in the area. Unfortunately I didn't find time to do Spitwad next door, but it looks amazing too!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jun 15, 2009
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