5.10b4me on the sharp end about a third of the way...
Description
Five feet to the right of the route, Men with Cow's Heads, you will see a crack/seam. About ten feet off the ground is a triangular chockstone. Once you reach this, most people consider you to be over the crux. I found the opening moves to be rather easy. Above the triangular chockstone, wander up to a ledge, then pull a bulge with a hand crack on the left side. Once over the bulge you stand on a good ledge. Continue on up where there is a tricky step from the left side of the crack to the right side of the crack. Once there it's five feet to the top. You can sew this baby up.
Protection
This crack loves small to medium sized cams and nuts. There is a large boulder about 10' back from the edge. I slung a cordalette around it. it's bomber.
Just a few months ago, there was a rather large loose block at the top (it looks solid on inspection but I think I saw it move) kind of a bummer because it looks like a solid placement for a #3 Camalot... so be careful where you put your top rope...
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Apr 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
If this boulder for anchoring is the one I think it is (about a large piano size), you can actually rock (no pun intended) it out of place. I agree with the previous comment - it appears solid, but it does indeed move.
Fun stuff! I slung the horn just right of the topout for the TR and it worked great. Bring long cord or webbing (?15-20ft).
By Stacy Manson From: Twentynine Palms, CA Dec 26, 2008
According to Vogel in Rock Climbing: Joshua Tree West (AFalconGUIDE), the first ascent for this climb was by Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Dave Evans, Alan Bartlett; March 1988. The climb takes protection to 2 inches and is a lot of fun.
I found the start of the climb to be the crux and rest is easy!
Atlantis
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