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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Granny Goose 

5.7

   

FA: Fred East & John Edgar 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 419 page views

Submitted By: Steven Powers on Jan 1, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Left Hand of Darkness


Description 

This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.


Protection 

This climb accepts a full range of gear, it starts thin about red alien/.5 camalot and widens up top to a #4 camalot.; large cams will suffice for anchors



Photos of Granny Goose Slideshow Add Photo
Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose.

Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose...

Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attraction ©

Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attrac...

Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.

Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.

Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect undercling!

BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect un...


Comments on Granny Goose Add Comment
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By Woody Stark
Nov 1, 2003

This wretched route is painful, and I'd rate it eight not seven

By 5.10b4me
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 2, 2003

Led this route back in '97. I don't like traverses, but this is a short one. I disagree about the route being an eight. It is definitely a seven.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
May 3, 2006
rating: 5.7

Decent enough route. The lower traverse is all buckets with the top being the crux, with a just slightly bigger than fists crack. Two #2 camalots for anchoring the top, just back from the edge. Employ a couple of long runners to make it comfortable.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007

A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Leading the traverse was awesome!

By Shiloh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 8, 2008

This is definetly a seven, the traverse is the easiest part of the climb imho - The down climb is on the back side and should be done w care...

By ben kenobi
From: Portland, OR
Dec 11, 2008

Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well.