The crux lies in the first 10' of climbing with fingerlocks and poor feet. Eases to 5.8 after that. Small TCU's will protect down low (purple/blue TCU). Walk off to the west.
Protection
Light rack. Small TCU's (purple/blue) protect the crux.
to make this climb even better you can link it to the 10+ arete above i belive it has three bolts, make for a very enjoyable climb although the arete is a little heads up.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 21, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Liebacking the crack (facing left) gets one quickly and easily past the crux; agreed that jamming it without tiny fingers would make it much harder.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Short but sweet. I liebacked the starting moves until you can get your feet under you, and then transitioned to a straight-in position.
By ben kenobi From: Portland, OR Dec 11, 2008 rating: 5.10d
I didn't know what this was when I saw it, just that it looked beautiful. Perfect splitter from tiny tips to beautiful hands. With my sausage links, it was very hard off the deck. Well worth doing if you're in the area.
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