The crux lies in the first 10' of climbing with fingerlocks and poor feet. Eases to 5.8 after that. Small TCU's will protect down low (purple/blue TCU). Walk off to the west.
Protection
Light rack. Small TCU's (purple/blue) protect the crux.
to make this climb even better you can link it to the 10+ arete above i belive it has three bolts, make for a very enjoyable climb although the arete is a little heads up.
This thing is a super finger size dependent, two move wonder. The crux is right after you pull off the ground...if you have waif-like or children's fingers, it's probably .10a, if you have sausages...it's easily an .11 move. Pull up onto the good foot, cram half the first digit of a pinky in there and pinch while pasting a foot onto garbage. Lock that off and reach to an almost first knuckle deep finger jam, then into good feet and locker fingers. At 10' off the deck, it eases substantially and the rest is about 5.8. Literally two hard moves and then cruising...the whole thing is only about 30', but it's worth doing. Think of it as a roped boulder problem.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 21, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Liebacking the crack (facing left) gets one quickly and easily past the crux; agreed that jamming it without tiny fingers would make it much harder.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Short but sweet. I liebacked the starting moves until you can get your feet under you, and then transitioned to a straight-in position.
Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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