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Arid Piles
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29 Palms 

5.11d

   

FA: Tony Yaniro, Mike Lechlinski, Vaino Kodas, & Alan Nelson, 1981
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 872 page views

Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 24, 2003


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Tony Yaniro on the FA of 29 Palms (5.11d), Joshua ...


Description 

This climb is on the northwest face of the Arid Piles formation. Approach from the northeast end and enter the 29 Palms Corridor. Scrambling over boulders within the corridor leads to the base of the route.

Difficult lieback / jam moves reach the very steep left facing corner with a seam in the middle. Extremely technical and challenging palming and stemming moves go over a bulge to a lower angle section with a finger sized crack. Near the top the climb steepens before the anchors.


Protection 

#00 - #3 TCU's, many small to medium brass, a few medium stoppers and one 1" cam for protection. The crux section is protected by brass. A fixed stopper is at the beginning of the crux section. Bolted anchors with rappel rings are at the top.



Photos of 29 Palms Slideshow Add Photo
Attempting to decipher the sequence at the base of the crux section. Photo By David Harper.

Attempting to decipher the sequence at the base of...

Finally getting some fingerlocks, just past the crux. Photo taken May 2003 by Skip Garibaldi.

Finally getting some fingerlocks, just past the cr...

View of the top of 29 Palms from the trail

BETA PHOTO: View of the top of 29 Palms from the trail


Comments on 29 Palms Add Comment
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By Vernon Stiefel
May 26, 2003

This climb is, hands down, the most difficult 11d I have climbed in the park to date.

By Randy
May 29, 2003

Vern:

Perhaps climbing this palming and smearing dihedral is a bit harder when it is so damn hot in the Park???? Not to say it isn't hard.

By Anonymous Coward
May 30, 2003

Hey Vern,I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from this excellent route. I actually found it easier for the grade. It's all about creative stemming and it's a great route to improve your stemming techniques. No finger strenght required.Brian Smith

By Steven Powers
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.11d

to set a top rope you will nead to ropes, you can set an anchor on top of the for mation then rap down to the anchors and set up the TR off of the bolted anchor, this is one of my favorite 5.11's ive done in the park, you just gotta trust those smears, as Randy implied not a good one to do in the middle of summer as i did.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 12, 2003
rating: 5.11d

Location, high quality moves and good gear make this one of the classic stem routes in the Park. Four stars out of five.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite, CA
Feb 1, 2009

I coward away from the lead on this one. The gear in that corner just seems sooo thin. I wondered if it would even hold a fall.