BETA PHOTO: "Wilson Regular Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
Every data base needs some climbs you should NOT! do. This is one! Seems like every time we have been to the Freeway Wall we've seen someone having an epic adventure on this one. Usually involving trundling large blocks on the crowd below. It's an easy, (5.5) long, (3 pitch) climb and suckers in a crowd consistent with those atributes. There is however an inobvious and improbable looking left turn near the start of the second pitch. Most parties miss this and end up on the Wilson Irregular Route, 5.9?, bad pro, bad rock and in trouble. It took over 30 years for someone to con me into doing this one. I thought it looked worthless from the ground and doing it only confirmed that, but if you are a true masochist, here goes.
Pitch 1, Go up the easy and fairly obvious ramp on the left side of the large recess about 100ft or so left of The Swift. Belay at a big ledge. DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE RAMP!
Pitch 2, Step left and go up the plates on the right edge of the steep dark face. If you are a budding 5.5-5.6 leader this will look totaly wrong, but it goes! Belay on the large right trending ramp system. Short pitch.
Pitch 3, Continue up the easy ramp to the top. Be careful to avoid trundling loose crap on those below!
Well, it's definitely not a bomb. Yah, sure if you're _ a 5.7 leader, it's NOT a good route for you. It is loose... very loose in places, but I climbed this in a party of three, leading all pitches with two less experienced climbers following, and there we caused no rockfall as we climbed the route. Route finding was not easy, but not impossible. The traverse left onto the plates on the short second pitch was apparent from the ground, but a little less while on the climb. 2nd pitch beta: GO LEFT. Go 20 ft up from the P1 belay, then head straight left to a ledge with a bush. There are good spots for pro if you avoid the rotten rock. from the ledge, go straight up the steep plates on gym-style holds. Belay just above the steep plates. 3rd pitch will traverse way right on the lower ramp then follow cracks and flakes to the top.
This climb is a lot like an alpine climb. It's lose. Route finding is not straightforward. Climbing is mostly easy with a few cruxy sections. All in all, I enjoyed the route. It's not your typical JTree style, but it's what I'd expect for a "... Regular Route."
I've done variations on this route a few times, but am not sure I've ever done it the way described above. Here's my somewhat faded recollection of my variations, which I've always enjoyed: Pitch 1 -- up the easy ramp to a sling belay around a pillar, or continue up and left to a ledge with a tree. Pitch 2: Slightly left and up a somewhat loose, but easy 5.5 chimney with large patina holds. Alternately, continue straight up a short but clean right-arching 5.9 dihedral with a finger crack. I remember this being a little tricky to protect, but nothing R rated.
Hey This was one of my first trad leads. I've followed a bit and have my head on straight. I linked P1 and P2 together and basically walked up that ramp, in the dark.
The route wanders a bit but I thought it was straight forward and a fine 5.5 lead... I'd say there were some loose pebbles but not anything big. R rated my ass... not half as bad as a JTree sport climb.
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