James P. moving through the first few moves of Tin...
Description
This is the thin crack to the left of the wider crack Dinkey Doinks. This is on the east/northeast face. A beautiful crack that eases off after the crux at the bottom.
Protection
Takes small to medium nuts and cams. large pro for the anchor.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California May 5, 2003
A real nice route. only one questionable 5.10 move at the start. the rest of the route is 5.9
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 11, 2004 rating: 5.9
The whole grade route feels like 5.9 or 5.9+, really. Lots of stoppers will go in this thing too. I sewed it up the whole way, continously anticipating a 5.10 crux move that never appeared.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 24, 2006
The move off the deck is easy - after which there is some technical stuff to the horizontal crack which in my opinion merits a 5.10b rating. A high quality route on steep rock with very nice moves.
Once again the rope can be hitched around a convenient block for a belay. Or is this a dying art?
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 25, 2006 rating: 5.10b
I climbed this again recently and found the moves getting up to the horizontal to be in the 10b range. Beyond that, fairly consistent 5.9 climbing to the top. As Chris says, looping your rope around the block works great for an anchor.
Tiny Tots Rock
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