David getting ready to turn the roof on the sustai...
Description
This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake (5.7) or Leap Erickson (5.10b) as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.
The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper placement is here. Excellent rock and convenient rap anchor. Toproping is out of the question due to the huge rope drag; someone will have to second the leader to clean the gear. Pulling the rope after the rap is a bit tricky, pull to the far left.
Protection
Small to medium cams, one large stopper is really helpful on the slabby part of the crack above roof.
Huh - I must have missed the rap anchor at the top last weekend. Are you talking about the anchor on the slab route to the right ( not on the top of PA )? Fixed purple tcu, way jacked up.
2007 edit - Fixed TCU still there, only in Josh is this .11b. I'd say .11+ for leaders placing gear. With this route if you pull one piece, you could ground.
To the left of Leap Year Flake (5.7) is a fun bolted slab / face (7 bolts) that can be climbed to access PA's Dihedral. I assume this is Leap Erickson (10a/b), formerly a top rope.
Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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