A route the quality of which is the equal of any in the park. Extolled as a thin hands crack in guide books, I found this overhanging beauty more of a finger crack. Protection is abundant, but you have to hold on to place it. If you can make it through the crux to the pod just below the rim, you can eke out a rest. The finishing moves may not be the hardest on the route, but they are technical enough to wish you had the strength and endurance of a demigod.
I think Hercules is a more consistent crack route than Wanger Banger, its "grade mate" and perhaps pumpier.
Protection
A #3 Camalot or similar can be used in the lower easy section. Above that #1 Camalots and smaller can be used. If you can hang out and place nuts like the legends of yore, more power to you.
IMO this deserves 1 or 2 stars of 5. It's fairly short and the upper part of the crack is very crufty (a piece of mine rolled over and blew out as the cruft and crystals in the upper crack crumbled away. The climbing is challenging and insecure off fingers and liebacking in a flare that is quite awkward and not very inspiring. It is however fairly unique and the challenges it presents are kinda cool but I doubt I'll ever go back for a redpoint. Protects mostly with gear in the .5-1" range, I didn't find a single placement for anything as large as a #1 camalot, and I was wishing I had brought more red and yellow aliens or similar.
Great crack and a sweet little redpoint. I went back three times to send this little number in good style. Any Creek enthusiast would love wanger banger, no lay backing, no contrived climbing just beautiful overhanging .75 finger stacks! ENJOY! Oh and watch how you set up the anchor, bring lots of cord or very long webbing!
Ranger Station Rock
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