Smooth As Silk 

I hate to up-rate climbs but this is definitely a 5.8. You can rap from the slings with a 50m rope.

If someone knows exactly where False Smooth As Silk is (5.4 **), please add a detailed description to the site.

I disagree -- it felt hard to me the first time I tried to climb it, but that was because I'd never climbed outside JT and I didn't know how to climb a finger crack. On the second try, my technique was better and 5.7 felt right on -- definitely more than one grade easier than the 2nd pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite, which I think of as a benchmark for the grade. The toughest part was getting out of the scoop coming off the ramp, but once you figure out the sequence of (slightly muscly) moves, the rest of the climb goes fine.

it could be that my upper body is out of shape or my form is not as strong as I'd supposed. I thought this route's crux was harder than the hardest moves on Sail Away. however, I think that the main crack section was very clean and aesthetic. you might choose to take up webbing to back up the rap slings.

Regarding AJ's comments on not being able to find False Smooth as Silk: A couple of months ago I studied the end of Filipino Wall trying to identify False Smooth as silk. On the right side of the wall's end (facing the road)is a wide crack I'd seen several parties climbing, and on the left side are two thin cracks, one a little above and left of the other. I think those thin cracks are the route. Last week I decided to climb the route, expecting to be able to positively identify it in response to AJ's asking if it's a red Herring. After I got back down to the road, though, and looked back at the rock, I realized I'd climbed the wide crack (or rather, the face next to the wide crack)that I'd seen other people climb. I still think the route is in the thin cracks to the left, but it seems the natural approach line through the boulders takes you to a little headwall below the base of the wide crack. I think it might be possible to traverse left to the thin cracks from the tree at the base of the wide crack--or it might be necessary to work out a less obvious approach up the left side of the boulders. This may be more work than the route is worth, but next time I'm in Josh I'm going to try to get to those thin cracks. The mystery has me hooked. By the way, the route I did climb (bypassing the wide section of the right-hand crack by the face on its right and eventually traversing left to the crack above the thin cracks) is an easy but enjoyable route.

This is a cool little route--a good way to start or finish the day. You can do a harder direct start by bearhugging the small "buttress" to the NW of what I think is the proper start, hopping up to a small ledge, putting in pro [a .4 cam], then sidepulling the crack while smearing up the face. If that's the correct start, then 5.7 is a real sandbag. The crux of the main finger crack [in fact, off-fingers] is easier if you stem as high as possible before laybacking the crack. As of 5/7/05, there were good slings and 2 rap rings at the top.

The direct start (the right-slanting crack to the left of the gully) is about 5.9, with an interesting "bear hug" crux.

I definitely think this climb is 5.8. I have fairly regular sized hands and the entrance to the proper crack has 2 - 3 moves at a very awkward size for me.

A boulder problem to a finger splitter crack. A nice climb.

A beautiful, clean, mirror-smooth slab with a fingercrack, barely two minutes from the car...if it were 5 times as long it would be an all time classic. The crux is probably the first move or two off the ground or possibly the entry moves into the upper finger crack. The finger crack is more technical than it looks. I remember expecting to just plug in perfect finger locks and being surprised. Takes good gear, easy to find, rap off.

Edit: As a sidenote, this has been up-rated to 5.8 in the new Vogel Joshua Tree West guide.

Sweet finger crack! If only it were about three times longer... I'd give it more stars.

The slightly overhung finger lock crux is partly finger size dependent. My fingers are possibly bigger than most folks and I had a painful insecure time getting through the crux. Plenty of pro at the crux though so you wont go anywhere.

Once above the crux (getting into the crack) it gets wider and face edges (for feet) are there if you dont want to practice keeping your feet in the crack - Less painful but less interesting.

Theres always webbing and rap rings hanging from a horn at the top but eyeball it before heading up.