Good little slots lead to the first impasse; a rather ominous bulge. Good technique pays dividends here and soon the next impasse is reached. Cool high step moves will pull you through this to the last impasse, a thought-provoking but not difficult mantle.
I found "Right Mels Crack" to be much easier. Then again, I was pissed off and had zero focus when doing this one. I simply gave up on and lowered. But easy to set up due to good anchors on top if top roping. And gully easy to climb to do so. A cordelette or webbing works fine along with a couple biners and of course "Lockers"........... Might be that taller works (Taller than 5.8?) better. But deffinatly another doable fun climb.
Like it's neighbor, excellent rock, excellent gear and fun climbing. If only it were longer.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 30, 2004 rating: 5.10b
Short like it's neighbor, but more of a crack and more continuous moves throughout. The crux comes at mid-height and involves getting stood up while milking some flared fingers. Two stars out of five.
Followed this climb yesterday. It had some really tenuous moves. I found it about a grade harder than "Right Mels Crack", which I had just led. I think it is more like a 10c with the Right Mel Crack being solid 10b.
Multiple ways to pull the crux. I've done it 3 different ways. Very slightly more sustained than Right Mel, but an easier crux (if you suss out the easiest way to pull it), especially for shorter people. Emphasize tips to 1" for the rack. Anchor takes from .75 to #3 camalot.