The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks 

FA:  Todd Gordon, January 1988 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 90 page views Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, 5.8 and R.S. Chicke...

Description 

This is the obvious double crack system on the top half of the right side of the southwest face of Cockroach Crag.

The bottom section is relatively rotten, but protects adequately if you avoid the really loose stuff.

The double crack system is wonderful, straight-on, solid, well-protected hands. Like many climbs, it's main crime is being too short.

Protection 

Small cams or (preferably, since the rock isn't all that solid) tricams for the horizontals, up through a #2 Camalot for the cracks.

Small cams/tricams up through #3 Camalot for an anchor on top, depending on where you choose to build it.

Walk off to the northeast and down the gully on either side of the rock.