Shana Lauer just below the crux of Biological Cloc...
Description
Biological Clock lies on the far right (west) end of DQ on a separate, short wall. Look for the single bolt on the upper face.
A fairly unusual route, as most of the protection is by tying off rock "plates". Start up nice 10' hand crack. This is where the fun begins. Move up and left on incut plates (some a bit hollow sounding). One solid bolt (replaced 2/02) protects the crux (5.9+) exiting moves. Getting to that bolt is a little spicey. Belay in crack and descend by walking NW to chimney/slot that will take you back to your pack.
Protection
Not much! A hand-size cam for the initial crack, and a couple of shoulder-length slings to tie off rock "plates". One solid bolt on the upper face protects crux moves. A stopper or two can be slotted between plates below the bolt. Bring a couple of cams for the belay.
By Chris Miller Administrator Sep 6, 2004 rating: 5.9+
Fun little route to do if in the vicinity.
By Ryan Kelly From: the Gym Oct 8, 2007 rating: 5.9- R
I don't know about 5.9+, there's one little friction move at the top, the rest is 5.4-5.7. I would however note the protection rating, while maybe not R (PG-13?) is worth considering. I suppose you could find something to sling inbetween getting on the face and the bolt, otherwise you run it out on fairly easy ground.
Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
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