Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.
The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.
This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.
Protection
Small cams and brass required, bolts on top, single rope rap down.
Add CommentComments on The Importance Of Being Ernest
Did this route for the second time (23 years later) and found it to be excellent climbing and a bit scary. 3+ of 5 stars. The moves above the first roof are heady and a fall would be most unpleasant. Above, as Murf said, small brass nuts are essential, and save a 1 to 1.25" cam for the final roof (bomber placement here). Route takes a wide variety of gear from tiny nuts to 2 inch cams.
Wanted to lead this one after Prepackaged but decided to TR it instead after rapping the route. Protection opportunities above the roof were scary. Aside from that it is an awesome climb and was fun to do on TR.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 6, 2006 rating: 5.10c/d R
Even as a TR, this is one awesome route! Thought provoking face and crack climbing. Do it.
I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves!
Hemingway Buttress
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