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Anacram 

5.10c

   

FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis and Rich Smith, 1981
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 246 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Dec 14, 2002


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"Anacram".
Photo by Blitzo.


Description 

Start about 20' left of Cakewalk (5.8) by climbing past a solitary bolt into an arching, left-facing corner. Higher, steep and enjoyable moves lead past another bolt into a thin crack which leads to the top.

A great route which should not be missed if in the area, this climb will leave a favorable impression on you. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2.5"



Add Photo Photos of Anacram
Anacram.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: Anacram.
Photo by Blitzo.

Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wall. Photo by a random stranger, 1/04.

Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wal...


Add Comment Comments on Anacram
Show which comments —
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.10c

After quite a tricky but well protected crux the upper crack has a way big feel to it.

Position, exposure, varied technique.

First time's a charm.

By Randy
Jan 28, 2003

An excellent climb; the rock has cleaned up well. Challenging for the grade; I would call it more 5.10c/d.

By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
Nov 13, 2005

One of my new favorites. Great variety, interesting moves.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Good route. Two cruxes. First crux is well protected but harder at the second bolt. The second crux is the "mental" one.Towards the top of the crack, I fiddled for 15 minutes trying to get some gear higher than knee level to protect a tough move. Eventually I found a marginal RP in a flare - not the best piece but good enough to bust the move.

Like the other person indicated, this climb leaves an impression on you.

By tony grice
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.10c

Overlooked classic! Bring your captain crush hand for the crux lay back.