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Men With Cow's Heads 

5.5

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 830 page views

Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 6, 2002


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Simon Bentley belaying


Description 

Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).

This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.

Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.


Protection 

Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.



Photos of Men With Cow's Heads Slideshow Add Photo
1-12-03

BETA PHOTO: 1-12-03

Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads routes

BETA PHOTO: Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads routes

Men with Cow's Heads

Men with Cow's Heads


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Dec 3, 2005
rating: 5.5

Took a beginner friend out to this wall in Nov 05. Looking at the middle of picture, just about any line one takes up is the same rating with very good protection opportunities. It's easy to set up a TR from hiking up the backside. FYI, word is out about this area, and it is getting very popular (e.g., crowds). It's one of those semingly few places that has several easy to get to, easy to set up, easy to do routes. With that said though, a nice find.

By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

A good climb. I think it is more like 5.6.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.6

Great climb for the rating but the start is tenuous. Felt more like 5.7 - JT is like that. So I averaged to call it 5.6.

A friend was lamenting that the Winger guide has brought much attention to walls like this. But I have to count myself as one of those that might never have discovered Atlantis without it. Thanks D!

By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.5

I second the "excellent beginner trad lead suggestion". It was my second lead ever in march 2005. I recall the crux for me was working up and beyond the big Y. I placed only passive pro (nuts and hexes).

By dcgusto97
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 7, 2009

Pretty fun route. Good protection as most posts already note. I would highly suggest looking at the other routes on this wall - Wegener's guide brings a number of folks out here.