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Scary Monsters 

5.12a

   

FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 231 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: "Scary Monsters" follows the beautiful corner.
Pho...


Description 

This local classic is the left-facing corner corner in the center of the wall, and although short it will test your flexibility as well as gear placing skills should you lead it. Three stars out of five.

Just getting established on the route requires a difficult move but there does exist a crux section midway although hanging on long enough to get gear in is the real crux. Seldom led due to the time-consuming placements but easily set up as a toprope problem.

This route has slightly more difficult moves than 29 Palms (5.11d), but it lacks that route's continuty and length. The Condor (5.12a), Warrior Eagle (5.12b) and The Thrill Of Desire (5.12c) are some other stemming corners of interest.


Protection 

gear to 2", especially many thin wires



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By RTM
Feb 13, 2003
rating: 5.12a

Sweet little route. Discombobulating stems and THIN pro. Prolly not 3 stars tho.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 12, 2003

Is there a #4 angle still up high on this route? Does anyone know?

By Steven Powers
Sep 1, 2003

my friend and i found that rather than steming the blank section that it is much easier to lieback through it, 5.12a???? i thought......

By Murf
Sep 2, 2003

Did you lead it as a lieback?

By Steven Powers
Sep 2, 2003

no we top roped it, but isnt a route rated by how hard the moves are?

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2003

no its by the lead !!!!gotta have your lead head screwed on tight to bust out some sick lybacking on lead.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.12a

I led this route on a recent trip to J-Tree and I found the climbing to be superb, if a bit short. As for laybacking, I had to bust a few layback moves in the middle, but to layback the whole thing seems like it would be really taxing. There are good footholds on either wall that allow stances for placing gear.

I'd be tempted to give it three stars, but since I'm not a J-Tree local, I don't want to buck tradition. We just don't get much of that kind of pure stemming here in New Hampshire, so this route was really unique for me.

By Kayte Knower
Mar 27, 2007

As Jay's belayer, I can verify that that there is no fixed anything on the route and not much of unfixed anything either. Not for the faint of heart, this one. The gear proved small, dubious, and extremely strenuous to place.