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Roadrunner, The 
Rock Wren 
Route 182 
Scary Poodles 
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Spoodle 
Such A Poodle 
White Lightning 

Scary Poodles 

5.11b

   

FA: Darryl Nakahira and Randy Vogel 11/82
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 251 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.


Description 

The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh. Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock.

The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top.

Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced version of Poodles Are People Too, which lies further to the left on the same wall. After this climb you'll be ready to try Cool But Concerned (5.11c/d) or Baby Huey (5.11d). Four stars out of five.


Protection 

fixed pin and gear to 2.5", especially many thin to 1"



Add Photo Photos of Scary Poodles
"Scary Poodles".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: "Scary Poodles".
Photo by Blitzo.



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By david goldstein
Apr 21, 2004

Good climbing, but the crux is really protecting the 8 to 10 feet after the pin, the crux, where I found the placements to be C2 -- hard to get and not very trustworthy. Furthermore, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on the pin which flexes with a good downward pull.

By Manjushri
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2007

Very enjoyable climbing on this one. Descriptions seem to be spot on: a nice steep pumper requiring hang time to place decent gear.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jul 5, 2008

Soloed by Michael Reardon