This climb is located towards the left end of the wall and lies just to the right of the obvious straight-in crack of White Lightning. This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route.
The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece...higher, the difficulty eases until a steeper section is encountered at the top. To descend rap off with two ropes from bolts nearby or head (climber's) right to a 2 bolt rap anchor atop The Importance Of Being Ernest (80' rap). As an alternative there are several ways to walk/downclimb off as well.
Protection
Pro to 2.5". Small wires and cams work well for the lower part of this route; higher you'll want some bigger stuff.
Lots of people know what's up with all the poodle routes. Precious tradition might dictate, however, that such tales be reserved for the late night b.s. session over HVCG campfires, rather than speculated upon and bastardized over the internet.
Thou shalt urinate on thyself at campfire, and cultivate thy foul language when breaking fast, and covet thy SUV-driving neighbor's wife, and misrepresent thy identity when thy tent is impounded by the NPS. Just no bastardizing poodle jokes.
The whole "Poodle" thing got started with this route, a tribute of sorts to Charles Cole's giant "Standard" poodle "Gus." It expanded to poke fun at the various macho, pompus or just stupid sounding route names being put up during the 80s. (ie: "Scary Monsters = Scary Poodles; Knight In Shining Armor = Poodle In Shining Armor; etc.) It just got out of control (very silly) from there. (Tales of Power = Tails of Poodles; The Atom Smashers = The Poodle Smasher). Soon other people who had no idea of what prompted all this were naming poodle routes too. Some of the other Poodle routes are quite good too.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 15, 2003 rating: 5.10b
The way I did the crux after a few false starts involved a strange mantle like move off of my right palm... behind me. I went up and down 3 times looking for a more secure way, thinking that a fall from there if one slipped would be up-side-down. Consider a helmet for this route.
Maybe 10c. The first thirty feet is all business. The moves are sustained and technical. The gear is bomber and thin. There seemed to be two cruxes packed into this section. A thin layback move and then a long awkward jam to the left.
So good... Spot on about the two cruxes on top of each other. The runout over the small roof and the topout also kept me focused. Less fun were the ropes coming down from the parties rapping above and the peanut gallery waiting in line for nearby routes below.
Careful about where you place pro - some of those tapers are essential for fingerlocks. Great line!
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 6, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Best on the wall IMO. While the first 50 feet is the technical crux, the mental crux for most will be the small roof about half way up. You'll want a yellow alien (or equivalent) to protect this move. Expect a little spice as you surmount the roof.
By SirVato From: Toyota-rado Jan 4, 2007 rating: 5.10b
This is a cool route!! It looked pretty scary from the ground but, there is excellent small gear whenever you need it for the first crux(s). Protect the roof above with a green OR yellow alien. These moves are not hard but the gear will be below you so if you come off you could slam kinda hard in to the slab (maybe)
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 24, 2007
A single 70M rope will get you down from the anchors on top and to the right.
This is a beautiful thin line with great gear at the cruxes. Save a yellow alien for the roof. This is the only gear for ~15ft before and ~20ft after the roof.
really good route with solid pro where it counts. not for the budding 5.10 leader, though!
i thought that while there were two cruxes in the first 30 feet, the upper one was definitely the business. the polished feet make it pretty exciting, too.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Great route. Mostly face climbing with a thin crack for pro. My friend talked me into bringing extra TCUs and I was very glad to have them, and not just for the bottom section.
you can sew this thing up at the crux with a set of stoppers plus some brass. I wouldn't say the brass is mandatory though. Very slick from all the feet paddling around on this one.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Technical feet and thin locks make this an exciting and classic route. This route protects reasonably well enough, but be prepared to do some hard climbing above thin gear. I remember getting a bomber Black Alien placement down low as well as some thin wires.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c
Leading past the lower thin section leaves the rest of the climbing in a much more relaxed mode (e.g., bigger stances)