A really fun route up the obvious slanting hand crack which is just right of the obvious chimney/break in the center of the wall. Very featured knobby rock typifies this section of the wall making for a unique Josh experience.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 11, 2002
The guidebook said this was 5.7, but I thought it was much harder than Double Cross 7+, Sail Away 8, or even Room to Shroom 9. I felt like a heel for sending a new trad leader up it as her 4th lead, but was fairly happy I was just following it at the end of the day. On the bright side, it absolutely sews up with stoppers and small to medium cams. Great route.
Great climb on the great rock at Dairy Queen wall. The pro was tricy because the crack flares a bit. My first 5.7 crack lead in the park, definitely a route I will remember. After the clim rap to the left then TR the 5.9 face climb A Hot Fudge. Enjoy.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 27, 2003
Excellent quality splitter hand crack. Fun and sustained.
By Dynomight510 From: San Diego Sep 22, 2003 rating: 5.7
Sustained 5.7 climb from start to finish. This is "Frack" climbing- a crack that has prominent face features allowing you to face climb rather than crack climb it in some or most places. It has solid small and medium nut placements all the way. HB Offsets and small hexes work perfectly. Bring some 2-3" cams for the belay or top rope set up. The rap station is two 1/2" bolts with shuts(term) rather than bolt hangers with chains. The downclimb though the chimney to the climbers right is another way to get down. But it is a downclimb not a walkoff. This route is in the shade by the noonish.
Fun route. Lots of big face holds the whole way and good protection in the crack. Maybe a 5.7, but definitely not 5.8. Double cross and White Lightning are way harder.
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Oct 5, 2006 rating: 5.7+
A bit pumpy if you climb it inefficiently. Another good one for the novice leader if they don't mind a bit of a pump.
By dcgusto97 From: Palm Desert, CA Nov 7, 2009 rating: 5.8
Yet another fine example of the inconsistency of ratings at Josh. I must be a weakling with no crack climbing technique, but I sure think this was harder than some of the other 5.7 cracks I've led at Josh. I'd suggest that this route has a rating of 5.8. I wouldn't suggest this for a new leader.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
