Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

BETA PHOTO: The left side of the Dairy Queen Wall as seen from...

Description 

Although the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall shares the same name as the more popular right side, and the two portions are connected, most people are wholly unfamiliar with this lesser visited side. That's too bad as there are some really good routes on this side and the approach is actually easier as well.

The right side of the DQ Wall is characterized by juggy moderate cracks (hence it's popularity) while the left side has smoother greyish rock with the odd black knob. Some of the outstanding routes here include Leap Year Flake (5.7) a unique wafer-thin undercling flake, Get Right Or Get Left (5.9) a hundred foot crack with lots of variety, Norm (5.10a) a fun and well-protected face/arete, Pat Adams Dihedral (5.11b/c) a demanding and overhanging corner and Toxic Waltz (5.12a) a steep and exposed arete to face.

Getting There 

Park as for Hemingway Buttress, in the large, paved parking area and follow the signed Access Fund trail towards Hemingway and then cut left to near the base of the wall. Alternately, one can park as for Playhouse Rock, near the Milepost, and follow the marked trail to Playhouse and then cut right to reach the same point near the base of the wall. Once at the base a bit of scrambling is required to access the base of the wall proper; if you hit it right you should come in right at the base of Norm.

Featured Route For Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Pat Adams Dihedral 5.11b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid...

This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake (5.7) or Leap Erickson (5.10b) as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, ...[more]