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Hemingway Buttress
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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center) 
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Hemingway Buttress

Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse
Views: 17,223 page views

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Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu".
Photo by Blitz...



Description 

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.


Getting There 

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.


Descent 

Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress:
Dung Fu   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
White Lightning   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Feltonian Physics   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Overseer   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Prepackaged   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Head Over Heals   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Poodles Are People Too   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The Importance Of Being Ernest   5.10c/d R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Scary Poodles   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Browse More Classics in Hemingway Buttress

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.

Scary Poodles 5.11b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh. Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock. The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top. Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Hemingway Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu", "White Lightning", and "Feltoneon Physics".

BETA PHOTO: Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu", "White...

New climbing sign at Hemingway parking.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

New climbing sign at Hemingway parking.
Photo by B...


Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot

Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot

Hemingway Buttress.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Hemingway Buttress.
Photo by Blitzo.


Approaching darkness, JTNP.

Approaching darkness, JTNP.

Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.

Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.

Looking out to the road from Hemingway

Looking out to the road from Hemingway


Comments on Hemingway Buttress Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004

What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked!

By Blitzo
Mar 1, 2008

Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there!

By Murf
Oct 5, 2009

Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?

Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.