BETA PHOTO: Left side of the Whispering Wall. Stemski (5.6) cl...
The Climb
This route climbs the right edge of the huecoed face right of Stemski (5.6) past two widely spaced bolts. Begin by climbing the crack on the right margin of the face (My Three Friends) for 10' and then make some balancy moves out left into some huecos to reach the 1st bolt (1/4" with Leeper hanger). Runout but positive climbing leads to a horizontal break (gear possible here) and then up to a second bolt (3/8"), above which lies runout climbing on solid brown patina.
Protection
Two bolts, pro to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap (shared with Stemski)
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 21, 2006 rating: 5.10a R
Good moves on mostly good rock but the runout nature ensures it will be a TR for most. Until the first bolt is replaced consider this an X-rated route; the anchor needs an overhaul as well.
The climb can be started directly from the ground without any increase in difficulty and fwiw, a good 1/2" piece can be fished in the horizontal halfway up (as well as a medium cam 5' to the right). Two stars out of five.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Nov 22, 2007 rating: 5.9 R
I've climbed this route three or four times. the route is more fun if you avoid the starting crack. It is a bit runout, but no harder than 5.9 imo