Grainy friction up the lumpy south face of the formation leads to a bolted anchor at the top. Currently missing the first bolt, which makes this a serious lead without a clipstick. Zero stars out of five, but you could do a lot worse than this at Josh.
Protection
4 bolts (w/gold shuts), bolted anchor/rap. All bolts are 3/8"
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Oct 10, 2006 rating: 5.7 R
This route appears to have originally started from the very bottom via the chopped bolt, but the logical entrance to the route is atop a boulder or two leaning against the rock on the right. Stepping off of this and making a couple of moves gains the first bolt (original second). Either start however, provides enough exposure to give this an Rish rating for some. And, although well protected after this point, the bolts holding the shuts should probably be replaced. Although the bolts are screwed in tight enough, the sleeve that they are in seemed loose especially on one of the anchor bolts.
If this is the route I think it is, it is no less than a pile of junk. The rock is horrible quality, someone has etched initials into the rocks about 1/2 up, and one of the anchor bolts ( a modern one, not a split shaft ) moves in the hole. Over all, a suboptimal experience.
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