Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
The best way to approach this route is to climb Such A Line and then downclimb a gully 15' to the base of the route. The most difficult moves occur in the first 10' on the overhanging portion of the traverse but the difficulty is moderated by solid hand jams and edges for feet. If the climb was longer this would be a three star classic.
Protection
Cams to 2" provide solid pro for this traverse. An assortment of small to medium cams are necessary for an anchor.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 9, 2006 rating: 5.10b
The first crack line I did in J-tree that felt as hard as similarly graded slabs... steeper than it looks, and powerful. My second summed it up:"I felt like a rock-star for the first few moves... then I had to jumar up to get back onto them."
A few 2-3" cams protect the hard climbing, and smaller cams and stoppers protect the climb after the corner is turned.
Nice climbing, and a lot harder than 'Chemical Warfare' on the Room To Shroom boulder in 'Wanderland' albeit of similar character.
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