Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
AJ, the non-face climber showing off for Crystal!
Description
Just to the right of Bad Brains (5.9) is this well protected sport climb. Fun climbing and very, very good varnish. It may be a bit squeezed in but the line is separate.
By modern standards this climb is well protected and by JTree standards the climb is sewn up. Enjoy a well protected 10b bolt climb - a JTree rarity. The climb is protected by 6 bolts and leads to a two bolt anchor that had a couple of slings and biners on it as of Dec 2005.
The crux is above the 4th bolt. I found the rock on the route to be loose/sandy, and some of the holds to be a little weak. The climbing is on positive holds on the lower section and balancey smears and slopers on the upper section. If the route sees more traffic and gets cleaned up it will be a nice route. Still, I enjoyed it.
I think 10a is a better rating for the climb, but it will probably get harder as holds break off.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 13, 2006 rating: 5.10b
I did this route with no knowledge of it's rating to taint my opinion and thought it to be 5.10b. Although there were a few superfluous bolts low down, it was by and large OK, due to the number of insecure moves up high for which a bolt was not bad to have. Fun route overall.